San Antonio Mall Freud 10#34; x 24T Thin LU87R010 Multi Kerf Blade Rip $28 Freud 10#34; x 24T Thin Kerf Rip Blade (LU87R010), Multi Tools Home Improvement Power Hand Tools Power Tool Parts Accessories Saw Blades, Parts Accessories Blades Circular Saw Blades $28 Freud 10#34; x 24T Thin Kerf Rip Blade (LU87R010), Multi Tools Home Improvement Power Hand Tools Power Tool Parts Accessories Saw Blades, Parts Accessories Blades Circular Saw Blades Thin,Freud,Blade,(LU87R010),,24T,10#34;,x,plumbinglakeworth.com,Rip,Kerf,Tools Home Improvement , Power Hand Tools , Power Tool Parts Accessories , Saw Blades, Parts Accessories , Blades , Circular Saw Blades,/formant568582.html,Multi,$28 Thin,Freud,Blade,(LU87R010),,24T,10#34;,x,plumbinglakeworth.com,Rip,Kerf,Tools Home Improvement , Power Hand Tools , Power Tool Parts Accessories , Saw Blades, Parts Accessories , Blades , Circular Saw Blades,/formant568582.html,Multi,$28 San Antonio Mall Freud 10#34; x 24T Thin LU87R010 Multi Kerf Blade Rip
This blade gives new life to underpowered table saws and radial arm saws because the thin kerf does not require much horsepower. The Perma-SHIELD™ coating helps this blade pull 1/3 less on the saw, which translates into over 33% more cutting power. The ideal working range is from 3/4" to 2-3/4" thick.
The 10-inch Freud LU87R010 Thin Kerf Rip Saw Blade makes quick work of ripping operations in hard- and softwood. It features 24 flat, oversized teeth with thick TiCo high-density carbide tips designed to last, in addition to Freud's Perma-SHIELD coating, which reduces friction to prevent heat buildup. Plus, since it's a thin-kerf blade, it wastes less material and continues to cut cleanly when used with underpowered saws.Large-Tooth, Thin-Kerf Blade Ideal for Low-Horsepower Saws
In addition to offering faster cuts through tough materials, its large tooth design allows the blade to be safely sharpened more times, prolonging the life of the blade and saving you money. Plus the large gullets between these teeth ensure easy chip removal.
Well-Balanced, Anti-Vibration Design
This Freud blade is pretensioned for truer cuts under heavy loads. It also features an anti-vibration design that reduces chatter for a cleaner finish, longer blade life, and reduced noise while you work. And because the blade is laser cut from high-strength steel, you can trust that it will stay stable, flat, and true, even after prolonged use.
High-Density Carbide for Maximum Cutting Performance
This thin-kerf rip saw blade's 24 teeth are finished with tips made from an application-specific TiCo high-density carbide "ripping blend" that offers improved density, hardness, corrosion resistance, and heat resistance.
Ideal for the demands of ripping large quantities of thick, hard wood, this carbide blend includes extra cobalt for increased impact resistance. Plus, it delivers increased sharpness and edge retention, which means the blade will hold up longer--saving you money.
Perma-SHIELD Coating Reduces Friction and Heat Buildup
Built to withstand tough use in less-than-ideal conditions, this blade is finished with Freud's red Perma-SHIELD--a non-stick coating that reduces friction and nearly eliminates the heat buildup that excess friction can cause. By providing complete thermal insulation, this coating protects your tools and your work surface. And it resists binding when the blade is used for large-volume cutting applications, which reduces blade warp.
As a lubricating feature, Perma-SHIELD allows the blade to spin freely while reducing stress on the motor and carriage of your saw. In addition, this coating helps prevent debris collection and resin or "pitch" buildup. Since gummy pitch buildup causes extra drag on the motor of your saw, less buildup is another little convenience that translates into longer tool life and longer blade life. It also means less downtime for blade cleaning, so you get jobs done faster.
This industrial saw blade is backed by Freud's limited lifetime warranty.
About Freud: A History of Innovative Manufacturing
An industry leader for more than 50 years, Freud America, Inc. is a manufacturer and marketer of superior carbide cutting tools for the woodworking industry. Freud is one of the few manufacturers of woodworking tools in the world that produces its own MicroGrain Carbide with Titanium, called TiCo, a high-density combination of Titanium and Cobalt.
By producing their own carbide, Freud has the unique ability to formulate each tool for each specific application, thereby maximizing the cutting life and performance of the tool. Freud's full line of high-quality, woodworking tools includes saw blades, router bits, shaper cutters, power tools, and more.
What's in the Box
Freud LU87R010 Thin Kerf Rip Saw Blade--10-inch diameter, 5/8-inch arbor, 24-tooth design.
This blade gives new life to underpowered table saws and radial arm saws because the thin kerf does not require much horsepower. The ideal working range is 3/4" tp 2-3/4". This blade features Freud's Tico Hi-Density Carbide, Non-Stick Perma-Shield Coating, Laser cut anti-vibration slots, Anti-kickback design, and Tri-Metal brazing make this blade ideal for heavy-duty ripping on saws under 3 HP.
The thin Kerf of the Freud Rip Blade is what makes it one of the most efficient Kerf blade in its range. The thin construction does not require a high rate of horsepower to function on its optimum level. This also results in less wastage. The ideal working range is from 3/4" to 2-3/4" thick. The blade is made with Premium TiCo HI-Density Carbide Ripping Blend for maximum performance.
The Freud Thin Kerf blade has a protective, Non-stick coating of Perma-Shield that protects the blade from corrosion, drag and pitch-build up. It improves the performance of the blade by pull 1/3 less on the saw and increases the cutting power by 33%.
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Improving a dipping glaze with a measured CMC addition
The problem: This dipping glaze is crawling (as shown on the glazed tile). Fortunately, the slurry has settled about an inch, that provides an opportunity for an immediate fix: Remove some of the water and replace it with gum solution. I want to replace about one tenth of the water (to be between a base coat dipping and brushing glaze). The bucket calculates to 2549g of powder so I need to remove 217g of water and replace it with gum solution. One way is to use a small sponge: Wet and wring it out and then repeat touching it to the water surface and wringing it out into a container until 217g. A propeller mixer is needed to mix in the added gum solution (it won't just stir in). Of course this degree of weight-precision may seen to be overkill, but having a record of what was actually done to adjust the slurry is important to repeating it the next time it is prepared or as a base for further adjustments.
Wednesday 5th January 2022
Common dipping glazes converted to jars of brushing glazes
These are cone 6 Alberta Slip recipes that have been brushed onto the outsides of these mugs (three coats). Recipes are GA6C Rutile Blue on the outside of the left mug, GA6F Alberta Slip Oatmeal on the outside of the center mug and GA6F Oatmeal over G2926B black on the outside of the right mug). One-pint jars were made using 500g of glaze powder, 75g of Laguna CMC gum solution (equivalent to 1 gram gum per 100 glaze powder) and 280g of water. Using a good mixer you can produce a silky smooth slurry of 1.6 specific gravity. However most commercial glazes do have a lower specific gravity (have more water), this does aid further in paintability but requires more coats. Amazingly, the presence of the gum also makes it unnecessary to calcine the Alberta Slip.
Wednesday 5th January 2022
Using commercial glazes? You still need to know about specific gravity.
The glaze in this jar was 'goop', impossible to paint on. I did not know whether I needed to add water or try to deflocculate it (although the former is more likely and in keeping with what Laguna says on its website). I measured the specific gravity, it was 1.7, so clearly it needed water. It took 125cc to bring the specific gravity down to 1.5. However, it was still thick and dried immediately after painting on, clearly it does not contain enough gum for brushing. And the specific gravity is still to high for painting. So I added a Veegum CER solution incrementally, that really improved paintability. And slowed drying alot. And enabled it to gel on standing. The bright side: I got considerably more than a pint after adding the water, a big difference from some other commercial glazes which are mostly water.
Wednesday 5th January 2022
Veegum CER Saturated suspension
This is the most viscous Taiss 5PCS Motorcycle Gas Cap (Blue) Gas Fuel Tank Cap Vent, Bre we can make, 300ml water with 13.25g Veegum CER (50:50 mix of Veegum T and ICT Billet 6pc Extended Length LS Flexplate Flywheel Adapter Bol). It required the use of hot water and our two-gallon-mixer, on its highest speed, mixing in this cup. Add this gel to a raw glaze to improve its brushing properties and slow down drying. Often this works better than CMC gum alone because it gels the slurry enabling increasing the water content and improving suspension properties. Or, substitute this for part of the water in low-clay-content recipes (if the glaze is already viscous, just add this). In slurries having sufficient clay use pure CMC gum instead (unless a high-water-content slurry is needed).
Wednesday 5th January 2022
Crawling in G2934Y zircon white glaze: There are simple fixes
G2934Y is a fabulous base glaze but it is not without issues. It has significant clay content in the recipe and high levels of Al2O3 in the chemistry, these make it susceptible to crawling. While it is normally fine as is, when you add certain stains to color it (especially at significant percentages) or opacify it using zircon (this has 10%), it can become more susceptible to crawling. On this mug, the glaze layer thickens at the recess of the handle join, that produces crawling during firing. Crawling can also happen on the insides of mugs, where wall and foot meet at a sharp angle. This happens, both because the glaze cracked here during drying and because the zircon stiffens New York#39;s Delicacy, Natural Smoked Salmon Nova - 2 x 0.5 Lb, making it less mobile. Adjusting the glaze recipe so it shrinks a little less on drying is an option (by trading some of the raw kaolin for calcined kaolin). But easier is to add a little CMC gum, start by letting it settle and replacing 10% of the water with gum solution.
Tuesday 4th January 2022
This serious glaze crawling problem was solved with a simple addition
This is G2934Y white (with 10% Zircopax). I initially blamed the zircon for the crawling. But, since the slurry had settled somewhat I was able to remove about 15% of the water and replace it with CMC gum solution. The gum addition was not enough to slow down the drying much (one reason to avoid gum if possible). That fixed it! Meaning that adherence of the dried layer to the smooth bisque was the issue. This being said, there were still a couple of small spots where it crawled. Replacing another 5% of the water should fix that. If you need to fix the problem with a gloss white it will likely require less gum, start with replacing 10% of the water.
Tuesday 4th January 2022
The high porosity of this clay body is what makes it easy to seal against water leakage
This body has high porosity, almost 25% (it is L4410P, a dolomite-based low fire whiteware). But this high porosity has an advantage: It soaks up silicone sealer very well. The slip-cast piece on the left was sealed (you can see the surface sheen) and it is impermeable to water penetration (the glaze is not crazed so water cannot penetrate there either). The piece on the right soaks up water readily (on the lower unglazed portion).
Context: Clay body does not hold water
Monday 3rd January 2022
The G2934 glaze does not look good on dark-burning bodies
Carburetor for - STIHL MM55 MM55C Tiller Multi Engine is a fantastic glaze, but only on the right body and with the right firing schedule. That is not the case here! This firing was done without any control on the cooling cycle. The added zircopax (to whiten it) stiffens Thin Blue Red Line Flag Heartbeat Garden Flag Decorative Banner and makes G2934 pinhole-prone on dark burning bodies (because they generate more gases during heatup in the kiln). The clay on the right is Plainsman Coffee Clay, it contains 10% raw umber (a super-gasser). The centre one is Plainsman M390, it bubbles glazes more than buff-burning bodies. The left one is M332, it is a coarse grained and that seems to vent gases well enough here to eliminate the pinholes. The surface of the two on the right would be greatly improved using the C6DHSC firing schedule but, unfortunately, the slow cool would matte the glaze surface, making it really ugly. The PLC6DS drop-and-hold schedule might also reduce the pinholes, without matting the surface. What about without the zircon? There would be fewer pinholes, but micro-bubble clouding, which is not visible here because of the opacity, would make for a truly ugly effect on dark bodies.
Sunday 2nd January 2022
Stamp used for stamping information onto clay test bars
This type of stamp is ideal for marking We#39;re at It Again and ID information on SHAB test specimens (and many others) while in the plastic form. Set up the run or recipe number on the left and the specimen number on the right. You can find these stamps on Amazon by searching "12 digit rolling alphabet symbol number stamp".
Tuesday 21st December 2021
How do you decide what temperature to fire this terra cotta at?
Let's suppose you need strength and density for utilitarian ware. These SHAB test bars characterize a terra cotta body, L4170B. While it has a wide firing range its "practical firing window" is much narrower than these fired bars and graph suggest. On paper, cone 5 hits zero porosity. And, in-hand, the bar feels like a porcelain. But ware will warp during firing and transparent glazes will be completely clouded with bubbles (when pieces are glazed inside and out). What about cone 3? Its numbers put it in stoneware territory, water tight. But decomposition gases still bubble glazes! Cone 2? Much better, it has below 4% porosity (any fitted glaze will make it water-tight), below 6% fired shrinkage, still very strong. But there are still issues: Accidental overfiring drastically darkens the color. Low fire commercial glazes may not work at cone 2. How about cone 02? This is a sweet-spot. This body has only 6% porosity (compared to the 11% of cone 04). Most low fire cone 06-04 glazes are still fine at cone 02. And glaze bubble-clouding is minimal. What if you must fire this at cone 04? Pieces will be "sponges" with 11% porosity, shrinking only 2% (for low density, poor strength). There is another advantage of firing as high as possible: Glazes and engobes bond better. As an example of a low fire transparent base that works fine on this up to cone 2: G1916Q.
Context: Shrinkage/Absorption Test, Formulating a body using clays native to your area, Fitting an engobe: It is about the data!, Foundry Hill Creme: What is it?, Should you expect to vitrify terra cotta?, It Starts With a Lump of Clay: How to Assess a Native Clay, Characterization, Terra cotta, Vitreous, Maturity
Saturday 18th December 2021
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